By: Darrell Mozingo

putingtikbalang 2 months ago on Twitter

shares http://tinyurl.com/yjlwjmz (Change your own motor oil) and http://tinyurl.com/y8cqbcs (rotate your own ... http://plurk.com/p/2x6u6s

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Todd G. 2 months, 4 weeks ago on Wordpress

My father taught me how to change oil before I could even drive. My first car was a 1972 Gran Torino Sport. I to this day remember my fist major scewup. I had drained the oil, removed the filter, installed the new filter, and then removed myself from under the car. I proceeded to dump 7 quarts of the new(then) Castrol Syntec in the engine. Little did I know that it had all run out of the drain hole that I forgot to plug. What a mess. That was the last time I made that mistake. ... See all content Hide content

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Preston 3 months ago on Wordpress

Great idea. Despite some of the folks wanting to debate you on the cost effectiveness of changing your own oil, there is something very rewarding from working on your own car. I did not change my oil since it was due, but I changed my air filter, wiper blades and will be changing out my spark plugs.

Despite taking auto-mechanics in high school, I have gotten away from doing any maintenance on my vehicles. I used the same excuse as others- my time is too valuable. However, I will conduct basic maintenance on my cars because it is rewarding and I do want to know about my vehicles in case of an emergency.

Thanks for the article. ... See all content Hide content

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Steve C. 3 months ago on Wordpress

Note that you also get to make sure it gets done RIGHT. You get to choose your oil, and you gain familiarity with your car. The black box has one layer of opacity stripped away.

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The Simple Dollar Weekly Roundup: Next Project Edition « ThisGlobe.com 3 months ago on Wordpress

[...] How to Change Your Motor Oil Changing one’s own motor oil is a tremendous way to save money – when you pay someone else to do it, you’re essentially paying someone $20 so you can sit in a waiting room while some guy unscrews a nut, collects some oil in a bucket, screws the nut back in place, then dumps some clean oil in the top. Why not do that at home where you can do something worthwhile while the oil drains and save yourself $20? (@ art of manliness) [...] ... See all content Hide content

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Chris 3 months ago on Wordpress

Awesome post. I love working on my car, and would encourage all men to do the same. However, when buying oil for your car, pay attention to the weight you are buying. Most engines take a 10W30 or 5W30 motor oil. Using them interchangeably or even mixing them together won’t really hurt, but most manufacturers recommend a certain weight for certain temperatures. However, many newer engines (such as Hondas, and maybe some Fords, not sure) require a 5W20 oil. Sometimes it is stampted on the filler cap. When in doubt, look in your car’s owner’s manual. They all have a page called “fluids and capacities” or something like that. It lists how much oil you need to fill your car or truck, and what weight to use. Buy that every time, and you’re good to go. As far as brand, I like Pennzoil, but as long as it has the SAE logo on the bottle (little blue emblem with white SAE letters), you’re good to go. Happy wrenching! ... See all content Hide content

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Daily Links: 11,643 Words Edition 3 months ago on Wordpress

[...] Art of Manliness (still one of my favorite blogs) explains how to change your motor oil. This is something of a lost art. I used to do this on my first two cars, but haven’t done it [...]

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Russel Geist 3 months ago on Wordpress

Tamara, those are certainly additional factors to consider when making the decision. For instance, the is a cost to dispose of the used oil. However, as has already been pointed out, there are numerous businesses in most communities that accept used motor oil for free, so no additional cost is borne.

The time you quote at the quick-lube (20 minutes) does not include travel time to the quick lube. So, travel time to quick-lube vs. travel time to store to buy supplies is probably a better fit and equal. Plus, you can stock up on oil and filters if you find a good deal, or you can multitask and pick up the supplies when you are headed to a store like Wal-Mart for something else. Additionally, if you get good at the change, you can likely complete the task in less than the 20 minutes if-you’re-lucky time frame you wait at the quick lube.

True, the initial outlay for jack stands and drain pan (why not use what you’ve got, though) is greater than a quick-lube, but you’ll probably make that up after 2 DIY changes.

Is your dad a mechanic by trade or by hobby? If by trade, I can understand why he wouldn’t want to do the mundane car maintenance things himself. However, most hobbyists I know gladly perform any and all maintenance and repair themselves. After all, it’s what they enjoy. ... See all content Hide content

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USA Best Credit Report » Blog Archive » The Simple Dollar Weekly Roundup: Next Project Edition 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

[...] How to Change Your Motor Oil Changing one’s own motor oil is a tremendous way to save money – when you pay someone else to do it, you’re essentially paying someone $20 so you can sit in a waiting room while some guy unscrews a nut, collects some oil in a bucket, screws the nut back in place, then dumps some clean oil in the top. Why not do that at home where you can do something worthwhile while the oil drains and save yourself $20? (@ art of manliness) [...] ... See all content Hide content

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The Simple Dollar » The Simple Dollar Weekly Roundup: Next Project Edition 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

[...] How to Change Your Motor Oil Changing one’s own motor oil is a tremendous way to save money – when you pay someone else to do it, you’re essentially paying someone $20 so you can sit in a waiting room while some guy unscrews a nut, collects some oil in a bucket, screws the nut back in place, then dumps some clean oil in the top. Why not do that at home where you can do something worthwhile while the oil drains and save yourself $20? (@ art of manliness) [...] ... See all content Hide content

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Mute 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Like you and Geoff said, use a ramp and/or a set of jack stands. It really can’t be emphasized enough that a jack alone isn’t enough to support a vehicle safely. They’re unstable and if the car falls, it will probably kill you.

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Nik 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

I would recommend finding the oil filter under your car before deciding to change the oil on your car for the first time. As allegedly rewarding as changing your oil is, if your oil filter is in a truly unfortunate location (thank you, GM), you might be better off not doing it yourself. On my old car, the only way I could get at my oil filter was by removing the wheel and unscrewing the sheathing around the wheel well. I found that really annoying and NOT rewarding. That’s the type of oil change you should just pay someone to do for you–especially in an unheated Minnesota garage in winter–unless you really love sliding under your car.

Of course, like Brett said, if you’re really gung-ho, you WILL be able to get the oil filter off . . . eventually. But there’s no guarantee you’re going to want to do what it takes, especially if you don’t have your car on a ramp/lift/jacks and you have to unscrew the filter by hand or with a strap wrench.

That’s just my take. On my current car, the filter isn’t a problem, so I will probably start changing my own oil once I have a garage, but if I still owned my own car, it just wouldn’t be worth it to me. ... See all content Hide content

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Geoff 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Here’s a few thoughts on your post.

“The 3,000 mile rule is actually good advice… if you own a quick lube and want to make loads of money. Modern engines and motor oils can actually last much longer than 3,000 miles in between oil changes.”

You go on to mention that the reader should consult his vehicle owner’s manual, which is good advice. Most vehicle owner manuals specify two different maintenance schedules depending on how the car or truck is actually driven; they’re called “standard service” and “severe duty”, or words to that effect. In my case, a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee, the “severe duty” maintenance schedule specifies a 3,000 mile oil change interval. Here’s a snippet from that manual:

“Schedule “B”

Follow this schedule if you usually operate your vehicle

under one or more of the following conditions.

• Day or night temperatures are below 32°F (0°C)

• Stop and go driving

• Excessive engine idling

• Driving in dusty conditions

• Short trips of less than 10 miles (16.2 km)

• More than 50% of your driving is at sustained high speeds during hot weather, above 90°F (32°C)

• Trailer towing

• Taxi, police, or delivery service (commercial service)

• Off-road or desert driving

• If equipped for and operated with E-85 (ethanol) fuel.

NOTE: If ANY of these apply to you, change your engine oil every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months, whichever comes first, and follow the maintenance recommendations in Maintenance Schedule B.””

Note that this recommendation from Chrysler is about a vehicle with a heavy duty 8 cylinder engine equipped with a towing package. Your average passenger car has much lower tolerance for abuse designed into its mechanical bits.

As far as Chrysler is concerned, if you’re an urban driver, your vehicle probably meets the criteria for the more severe service maintenance regimen.

***

You suggest a car ramp set. Car ramps can be incredibly useful; I’ve got a set myself. I always use them in conjunction with a set of jack stands, however. I’ve always been told that ramps alone are not a safe enough support to trust your life to, and a little precaution goes a long way. You can get jack stands adequate for most light vehicles for $25 or so. And the safest approach is to always change the oil with the car resting with its wheels on the ground if you can fit under it to do the work.

***

“If it’s too tight, bust out an oil filter wrench. It’s an attachment that you put on the end of a socket wrench.”

There are actually many styles, and it’s understandable that brevity would dictate you only describe one. However, the cap-style wrench you describe only works well if there is room to swing the ratchet around under the car. Some people use strap-style wrenches, others use a giant pair of ChannelLock(R) pliers, it really depends on what works on the vehicle in question. The only way to know is to look underneath the car before you buy the tool.

Some day, you might encounter the oil filter that was apparently cranked onto the engine by an angry 900 pound gorilla. The cap-style wrenches will slip. A strap wrench won’t. One time I was caught without a strap wrench that would fit, and I solved it by drilling two holes into the cap wrench I had, then screwing through it with two sheet metal screws into the oil filter itself. Presto! No more slipping. It was a bit messy, but that’s part of the deal sometimes.

***

“If the nut is too tight, try this little trick: get a piece of pipe that’s a bit longer than your socket wrench and place it over your socket wrench’s handle. This will give you some added leverage.”

It will also break the ratchet mechanism in your wrench if the drain plug really is tight. Don’t do this. Instead, get an open end or box-style wrench, and a light ball-peen hammer. Put the wrench on the bolt, and tap the other end of it firmly with the hammer in the direction it needs to turn. This is exactly the same principle behind what makes air-powered impact guns so useful for busting stubborn lug nuts loose: you create a torque “moment” that will free the stuck plug without the risk of twisting the head off or destroying the wrench flats.

You can whack the side of your ratchet with your palm if you don’t have a box wrench, but don’t use a hammer on it. Get the right tool, even if it means putting the oil change off for several days.

Oh, and when you put the drain plug back on, finger-tighten it until it stops. Then get out your wrench and “snug” it down 1/4 -1/2 a turn. All you’re trying to do is make sure it won’t come loose, and it’s tight enough to seal. Massive muscle power is not called for here. If it’s too tight for your kid sister to bust loose with the wrench without help, it’s too tight.

***

“Some old rags. In case you drop the oil plug into the oil pan and you need to wipe it off. They’re also good for wiping off your hands.”

Two things here. First, you should be wearing rubber gloves when dealing with motor oil. It contains known carcinogens, and a thick, heavy pair of gloves will prevent you from burning your skin on hot motor oil, which can easily reach scalding temperatures.

Second, everyone drops the oil plug into the drain pan sooner or later. Those of us with our thinking caps on just reach into our toolbox for our handy magnetic pick-up tool. There are several styles, but the least expensive and most common is a strong magnet on the end of a telescoping rod. You’ll thank me after you fish your first drain plug out without burning your hands or getting them covered with oil.

In fact, if you have your engine oil good and hot, I would almost recommend just *planning* to drop the drain plug into the pan if you’ve got a magnetic pick-up tool. It will help keep you from getting burned.

Oh, and by the way, let that thing drip for a solid 15 minutes. Take the time you spend waiting for it to drain thoroughly and use it to tend to other maintenance items on the car that should be performed at every oil change:

* Check coolant level in overflow reservoir and add as needed

* Check power steering and brake fluids, adding as needed. (Clean the area around the brake master cylinder’s fill cap thoroughly before opening with a rag.)

* Check condition of belts and hoses

* Top off windshield washer fluid, remembering the tank for the rear wiper if it is separate and your vehicle is so equipped

* Check tire pressure on all four tires *and* the spare and adjust as needed

* Lubricate all door hinges and striker plates with either clean engine oil or aerosol white lithium grease

After you’re done with the oil change, check the transmission fluid on an automatic-equipped car with the engine running, parking brake set, and the vehicle on level ground. Neglecting your transmission is a sure ticket to an expensive repair job. By the way, if you have a Mercedes or Chrysler product without a transmission dip stick, pay close attention to any red fluid leaks that appear under the car, and have it serviced immediately if they appear. These vehicles are supposed to have “lifetime” transmission fluid (if not under severe service!) and thus don’t have a dipstick.

Good luck as you progress in at-home car repair, it is a rewarding, and most manly skill to acquire.

–Geoff ... See all content Hide content

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mp 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Oil changes are the gateway drug of car maintenance. Grab a shop manual for your specific car. They generally include diagnostic info, drawings of how things come apart and step by step instructions for any procedure that can be done at home (which is to say almost all).

Suggestion to continue series: Brake pad replacement. Saves a lot of money, is more or less universal and takes about 15 minutes per wheel. ... See all content Hide content

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p51mustang 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

I’m 56, and a junior high-school classmate taught me how to change oil on my first car, a ‘60 Ford Starliner. I spent so much money keeping that V-8 fueled I neglected the oil, and when I sold it back to a mechanic he said I had sludged up the engine. Then I worked in a Chevron gas station for about 6 months and got more practice. After that I’ve changed my own oil on 8 vehicles since then, even in LA and SF where I did it parked on the street. Growing up in Arizona we thought nothing of dumping the used oil on the ground to kill weeds, and after the environmental movement took hold we stopped that. By the way, are there any other Art of Manliness fans besides me who happen to be gay, enjoy working hard and getting dirty, and thereby defying the stereotype? ... See all content Hide content

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Tom Pierett 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Can’t get a filter off and no filter wrench? Use an old belt. Wrap it around the filter and through the buckle. Then pull in a tightening motion. This is hard to describe as I am right-handed and I tighten the belt on my slacks to the right. With the filter reverse it as if you are tightening to the left, counter clockwise to get the filter off. It’s gotten me out of a couple of jams.

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Kevin of Strength and Fitness Blog 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

I’ve done this ritual countless times in my life. I’ve also gone to the express oil change places for the sake of convenience. Either way is OK, but you should know how to do it yourself. You never know when you’ll need to. Or you may need to help a friend do this.

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Jonny | thelifething.com 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Sorry guys but I get two ridiculously hot girls in tiny clothing to do mine. They generally have a fight afterwards.

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Landon Alger 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Let me practice my reading and analytical skills.

You just learned this a month ago.

You need to change your oil every >3,000 miles

Therefore, you have only changed your oil one time.

And you are writing articles on it and teaching others?

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Trenden 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Here’s another vote for synthetic, but I’m an abnormal American I guess. I’m still on my original wife and I maintain my cars to last as long as possible. My 2001 VW Passat is up to 167k miles and I’d like to get to 300k if possible. The engine still purrs like a kitten so we’re doing well so far….

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Brian Driggs 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Bringing up oil and filters with car guys is asking for a million different opinions. Not as many as the “How do I break in an engine” discussion, but a lot nonetheless. A couple more thoughts on the subject.

1. Most synthetic oil on the market (even Mobil 1) isn’t 100% synthetic. Redline, Royal Purple, come to mind as being true synthetics, but just about anything labeled synthetic at the local chain is going to be a very refined conventional oil. Google it if you don’t believe me. I’m not posting another link to that oil guy’s website. I’m using Redline in my race car and Shell Rotella T “Synthetic” 10W-30 in my Mitsubishi. (The additional cleaning agents in the diesel oil have done wonders for me. Improved mileage, eliminated hydraulic lifter tick, smoother idle, and it’s $20/gallon.)

2. Fram filters get a bad rap. I don’t know anyone who’s ever *actually* had a failure due to a Fram filter failing. I know I haven’t. I’ve heard good things about Wix (who also makes NAPA Gold), but I’m hardly inclined or worried enough to switch. I even run a filter other than the one their catalogs suggest in order to aide in pressurization at start up and idle, since my engine (tell me one of you knows the 4G63) is known for low oil pressure.

What benefit is there to using synthetic oils and premium filters on commuters or daily drivers? They extend the engine life? Really? Here in our consumer culture where the average owner barely keeps his car longer than he keeps his wife, do we need to focus on maintaining our engines to last 200,000 miles?

If using dino oil and cheap filters reduces the life of my engine from 250,000 miles to 200,000 miles, I’m fine with it. I’ll probably have it out and apart several times between now and then, none of which for repairs. (Go fast with class, man.) ... See all content Hide content

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Bob Jones Esq 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

You don’t need a fingernail brush, just go make sausages. Somehow, your fingernails magically get clean…

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KJS 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

I have gotten the itch to start changing my own oil on my 2008 Honda Civic – now that the room I’m renting has an actual driveway, I have space to do so. I’ve started replacing my own air filter/other basic stuff as well and it feels good to learn about that.

Re: the oil change intervals – said 2008 Honda Civic has a “Maintenance Minder” system that does some basic computing of usage/wear/etc. to determine when your oil needs to be changed. It was so confusing when I couldn’t find a mileage amount given in the Owners Manual – it just says “Replace when Maintenance Minder hits 15% Oil Life”. In my experience, my car goes about 5500 miles between changes. Before people start saying I’m crazy – this is straight out of the recommended factory guidelines and is followed by Honda dealers. ... See all content Hide content

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David 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

My Dad taught me how to change oil, just like the post. It was a good father – son bonding moment. And, as I worked my way through school and made due on a minimum salary with my first job – it was a useful skill that saved money. These days, I bring my vehicles to a good mechanic who will do it nearly as cheap as the quick oil change places I don’t trust. As a bonus, they also lube all the fittings, check the belts, etc. Something that is missing from the post, but needs to be part of every 5,000 mile oil change / engine check-up. A vehicle with fresh oil & filter and a broken belt or worn fitting won’t get you anywhere. Also, I save $$$ by bringing my own oil (Royal Purple) and filter (K&N) – which is top of line and sells retail for the same price you’ll get changed for the junk they sell at the quick oil change places. ... See all content Hide content

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Brian 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Only thing I would add is to check when you remove the old oil filter to make sure that the old gasket came off with it. If it tears or sticks to the oil pump you need to get it off before putting on the new filter.

Also if you ever have any major mechanical issues that caused your car to overheat or if you have blown a head gasket make sure to change the oil along with the other repairs that you do. An overheated engine can break down the oil and a blown head gasket can get water and antifreeze into your oil. Either is bad.

A further tip, high quality synthetic oil will last longer and may improve your mpg. ... See all content Hide content

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Kiltman 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Great article!

One further tip: For the pennies they cost, I think it’s a good idea to replace the plug washer every time! I learned this the hard way after the old washer leaked…

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Shmikey 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Just a note for the environment, oil on our streets is oil in our streams (and that goes for any toxic fluids, and note that biodegradable does not mean nontoxic). Place your car over a gravel pit, because gravel and soil will act as a filter and will not harm our water, but oil on the pavement will eventually end up in our waterways. It is best to not ramp or jack your vehicle when it is not on pavement , but I have changed my oil plenty of times just sliding up underneath my vehicle without raising it, it is a tight fit and a little awkward, but it is still feasible with most vehicles. Washing you car should also be done on your lawn and not in your drive for the same reason. The detergents and waxes will eventually make it to our waterways. Our surveys have shown that more than 50% of people believe that the storm and sanitary sewer systems are the same. Storm sewers drain directly to the waterways and are not treated. ... See all content Hide content

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Michael 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

A few points. First, the oil change places price normally only incudes a certain amount of oil. If you need more, it’s much more. My car takes 7 quarts and it runs me nearly $50. Granted, too, that was 7 years ago, the last time I didn’t do it myself.

Second, contrary to marketing and other advice, the type of oil has less to do with how long between changes as the engine. For example, many newer cars have aluminum block engines that run significantly cooler, keeping the oil functioning properly longer. Older cars with cast iron blocks run hotter, requiring more frequent changes (probably closer to the 3,000 number).

Lastly, regarding disposal, check with your rubbish removal agency. Ours offers catch pans and will come pick them up if you call and leave it out at the curb along with the filter. They will also leave you a clean pan at the same time. You don’t have to go anywhere but the end of the driveway. ... See all content Hide content

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Greg 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Until I got “timed out” with the children and the usual list of weekend chores (yeah, we split them up, I’m also the Laundry King) I did my own lube & oil changes on two cars. Right now, Quickie lube or the dealer gets the $$. I’m still enjoying my fantasy of eventually owning the garage I saw plans for in college. Work shop on one side, two bays, one bay having a lube pit-pretty much like the ones at the quickie lubes! Ah, dreams…

A couple of digressions to the DIY theme.

First, on oil change intervals. A few years back, a magazine (I think it was Consumer Reports) did a year long service test using a taxi fleet. They found no difference in engine wear between the cars with oil changes at 3,000 mile and 7,500 mile service intervals. Note, that was taxi service in a large city…that’s about as severe use as severe use gets.

Second, I’ve found if your vehicle is used almost exclusively for low mileage short trips, it really helps to take it out once a month for a highway speed trip of 15-20 miles. There are a lot of ‘parasitic’ electrical loads on newer vehicles, and the battery will drain. Also, this will get the drivetrain up to operating temperature long enough to discourage sludge build ups. ... See all content Hide content

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library_goon 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Thanks for this post, Brett. Learning to change my own oil is on my list ‘manly’ things I want to learn. My regular mechanic is almost impossible to get up with anymore, and I hate taking my truck to one of those franchise chains. My Dad used to do it when he was still in good health, so I’m sure he has many of the tools I need.

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Ken 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Come on! If a guy can’t do basic maintenance like this he needs to ask his mom to it for him while he’s waiting for his sex change operation! This isn’t a manly ’skill’, its something akin to having to take out the garbage.

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Andy 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

I know for a fact I save money every time I change the oil in my Suburban. I’ve used Mobile 1 since the day I bought it and have had zero problems through the 140k miles. I recently had to take an unscheduled road trip for a funeral and needed the oil changed immediately. I went to a shop and paid $80 for a synthetic job. Wow! Typically it will cost me $28 for the oil and filter when I do it myself. It takes about 30 minutes with prep and cleanup. I don’t have to use ramps since I can crawl under the truck with no problem. But then I don’t use ramps on my Saturn either, just put my arm under there.

With today’s cars being so advanced changing your own oil is one of the last things we can do ourselves. I’ll keep doing it as long as I can find where the oil comes out and where the oil goes in. ... See all content Hide content

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Dave 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

After years of having it done at the shop I recently started doing my own oil changes again using a fluid extractor. Instead of draining from the pan I suck it out through the dipstick tube. You can argue that it doesn’t get all of the oil out but it’s close enough and it’s a whole lot easier than getting under the car and messing with the drain plug.

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K.C. 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Great article Brett,

I recently changed my oil for the first time in a few years (I used to change it in my first car, a 1955 Ford Fairlane. But haven’t in my second or my current car until now). I’d always have my mechanic do it. But I’ve always felt so good changing it myself, first time I did it I got my whole arm covered in oil, boy was I happy.

I’m glad you added the tip on using the pipe for more leverage, I had to pull that trick out when doing mine, worked like a charm.

To add my two cents to the saving money factor, I personally didn’t save money this last time, only because I incurred added cost with the oil catch pan (didn’t have one, but now I do, so one time fee but lasts a long time) and I went for full synthetic which wasn’t on sale. But, I do think that on average I’ll save money in the long run, and as you mentioned don’t have to worry about stuff getting stolen.

Thanks,

K.C. ... See all content Hide content

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Eric J. 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

While I would agree with Brett that you really do save money when changing your own oil, I’d also say that I’m not a fan of the idea of breaking everything down into “how much is my time worth?” Many, maybe most home improvement-esque projects, can be done by a professional in less time than it would take you, but I really feel like outsourcing all of your labor to someone else takes a bite out of your manliness. Maybe the real question should be, “How much can I pay other people to do things for me before my manliness takes a hit?” ... See all content Hide content

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Brian Driggs 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Excellent to hear we’re changing our own oil these days, sir. Kudos to you for taking the plunge. For me, it would seem a bit odd that a manly man would concern himself with discussions of hairstyle or fashion without first discussing automotive pursuits. I was surprised to learn you’ve paid others to do this simple job for you, but I recognize that we must all start somewhere.

As a gearhead, I hope this recent venture into the world of metal and brawn has whet your appetite for more involved automotive pursuits. The satisfaction of a job well done after an oil change is one thing. Turning the key and hearing the engine you’ve built with your two hands roar to life is quite another.

It is reassuring to know that there are wrenches being turned at the Art of Manliness. ... See all content Hide content

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TTFK 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

I do have to disagree with the ’saving money’ part of things.

Try this exercise. Add up all the time it takes you do EVERYTHING, including:

- Going to the store to buy the oil and filters

- Jacking up the car

- Waiting for the oil to drain

- Changing the filter and putting in fresh oil

- Checking for leaks (making sure not to overtighten the oil drain bolt in your aluminum oil pan unless you like paying several hundred dollars for a new one)

- Driving back to the store to dispose of the old oil.

Now, give a REALISTIC estimate of what your time is worth in dollars. Then, compare it to the cost of an oil change.

For the time it takes, I would have to complete the entire exercise in under 12-15 minutes to make it worth what my time is worth to have someone else do it for me. When I can pay $20 for someone else to do it, often while I am off doing something else constructive, it is a no-brainer. ... See all content Hide content

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Igor 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Two more great reasons to change your own oil:

-Quick change places like to forget things like oil plugs and to tighten filters properly. I know of more then a few people who 2 days after getting their oil changed got a low oil light because it all spilled out.

-No matter how much of a doof you may look like the rest of the time, take a Saturday afternoon, go out and change the oil in your car and your ladies’, then come back in the house covered in driveway gunk and oil, you will look like the manliest of men for quite some time. ... See all content Hide content

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Darrell Mozingo 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

@Jack Donovan:

Try How Stuff Works: http://www.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm

Good resources for catching up on the basics for a lot of this stuff.

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bcripps 3 months, 1 week ago on Twitter

GR- How to Change Your Motor Oil:

Ever since I’ve owned a car, I’ve always taken it to a quick lube to get .. http://bit.ly/1QO3oG

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Jim 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Good article! I’ve been changing my own oil for about 30 years, and I’ve done a ton of research to try to get it right. May I offer a couple of additional tips to get the longest life out of your car?

You can find out the manufacturers recommendation on oil cycle by reading your drivers manual or through online research. If you live in an urban center or area of harsh weather (and most of us do), you’ll want to follow the guidelines for severe duty. this is usually about half the “normal duty” in the book, and is where the “3,000 miles: lube it or lose it” comes from.

Take the time to research the oil you put in the vehicle, and spend the extra dough to buy the best you can afford. Make sure its rated for your vehicle: especially true for diesels!

Finally, spend money and buy a good filter. If you go for the $2 special, you may be unhappy with the results.

Thanks for the great blog! ... See all content Hide content

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COD 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Once you get the oil filter loose cover it with a ziplock and then finish taking if off. All the oil that leaks out as you unscrew the filter will end up in the ziplock and not on you or your garage floor.

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David Young 3 months, 1 week ago on Wordpress

Brett,

One thing you might want to mention is that when you remove the oil plug, the oil isn’t going to flow straight down. Instead it’s going to shoot about 4-6 inches out, so whatever your catching the oil in should be positioned accordingly!

On a side note, law school is less interesting without you around this year. Looking forward to the book signing in December.

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